Pour préparer votre expédition...

... C'est ici que ça se passe ! En attendant un forme plus élaboré de ce blog.

Vous pouvez donc me posez des questions pratiques pour préparer votre prochaine expé en Himalaya... 

Et uniquement en Himalaya. Pas la peine non plus de poser des questions sur le trek, il y a d'autres forums bien plus pertinents que celui ci. Navré.

Pour la réponse, pas de souci... même au Népal je reste connecté, sauf au camp de base bien sûr !

Pour info, le livre que nous avons signé avec Jean Annequin," Les plus beaux sommets du Népal" aux Editions Glenat est aussi un bon début.

A bientôt donc
salutations himalayennes
Paulo

Comments

[Dan Tebay]

Dear Paulo

Just read your article in the Peztle magazine about your style of steady progression mountaineering on Manaslu, and it sounds really interesting.

Have you tried this technique on any of the 8000m mountains?
Have you considered this technique on Everest?
Please could you give me more details/research etc?

Many regards
Dan Tebay

[Paulo Grobel]

Une réponse à Pierre pour le Gurkarpo Ri... ou le Dorje.
En fait il me semble que la difficulté (la raideur des pentes) est identique, mais c'est la longueur des étapes entre les camps qui est différente.
C'est aussi un questionnement sur la manière d'envisager les ascensions himalayennes... pour moi actuellement, j'aimerais évoluer (le plus possible) en étant réellement encordé et sans utiliser trop de cordes fixes. Voir un dernier post sur C2C http://www.camptocamp.org/forums/viewtopic.php?id=165985
Et dans ce cadre, le Gurkarpo Ri me semble plus réalisable. Donc, plus simplement, cela dépends de tes choix, si c'est avec cordes fixes, pas de souci... les deux sommets sont superbes.
@+
Paulo

[Paulo Grobel]

Hello Dan
Nice to receive your mail so early just after publishing this article on the PETZL magazine.
But where are you from?
And why did you ask me this questions? ...

Best regards
Paulo

About your questions...
> Have you tried this technique on any of the 8000m mountains?
Yes, we use it on Shishapangma and on Manaslu, but also on big 7000 like Mamostong or Chong Kumdan in Indian Karakoram.
For me, the next goal is to build more scientific work about this technique on Cho Oyu and to share it with the International Mountaineering Community.
I feel very “sad” about all the deaths or injuries on High Altitude on a classical style and I think that “La progression douce” could be an alternative way to climb the Himalayan giants with more pleasure and respect.
>
> Have you considered this technique on Everest?
I am not really focused on Everest, first because I don’t want to use oxygen.
And also Everest gives to much pressure on everybody. May be I am too old… or I have too much other things more interesting to do.
I am sure that it’s possible to do continue process on Everest, but everybody will look on you, and conceder you as crazy man.
>
> Please could you give me more details/research etc?
But what is your questions or your next climbing project?

[Robert Eckhardt]

Thank you for all your information.

You wrote "And this spring you can also imagine a traverse to joint the other side of the mountain, and then to come back to Phu by the “classic” Saribung Pass."
This I don't understand. Maybe you can explain this withe a line on a map.
I'am also a little cunfused about the exact position of Col Cler and of De Hults Pass. I always thought that the De Hults Pass is the same as the Saribung Pass. Maybe you can also explain this on the map.

I realize that I ask you a lot of questions but you are the only serious source of information about the Damodar-mountains.

Robert Eckhardt

[Dan Tebay]

Hi Paulo

Thanks for returning my email.
I am from the UK and live in London. I found your article fascinating.
I am interested in your work because I have climbed Cho Oyu in 2006 and Everest in 2007 and felt that there has to be a better way of climbing at altitude. I have a passion for climbing at high altitude and was disappointed in the tourist show that Everest and Cho seemed to have turned into, with everyone camping at the same plaice, fixed lines and queues etc.
Your idea of "La progession Douce" seems really interesting and something I would like to try.
Most people start use oxygen above 7900M did you?
What was it like on Shishapangma and on Manaslu, did you use Oxygen?
How many days did you spend above 7900M?
Did you feel better due to the slow progreess up the mountain?
What altitude did you start the 300m/400m per day process?

Regards
Dan Tebay

[Paulo Grobel]

Hello Dan
Just back from the Ben, I try to answer your questions…
All the best
Paulo

Most people start use oxygen above 7900M did you?
No. And I never want to use Ox. For that, I never take ox bottle with me. Even for medical use.

What was it like on Shishapangma and on Manaslu, did you use Oxygen?
No

How many days did you spend above 7900M?
Not so much, 1 or 2. Because to go up slowly we are most of the time under 7000 m. For Manaslu, we had also bad weather, we wait 4 days at the same camp and after we have hard job to make the track with 2 m of snow.

Did you feel better due to the slow progress up the mountain?
YES, with no doubt. And also with great pleasure...

What altitude did you start the 300m/400m per day process?
It’s not really a 300 m process, it’s more an intuition that more you go up, less you are able to do and so, you have to adjust your effort to the "altitude stage" on where you are. The difficulty is to adjust or to respect our capacity with the altitude and to try not to be tired in going to fast or doing too much effort.
it's not a easy job when every body do different and look on you as a stupid or creasy people...

[pierre Le Blanc]

salut Paulo,
Bon ca y est notre projet est ficelé et ce sera le Dorje au printemps prochain. Tout ce temps a été passé à essayer de monter un autre projet sur un sommet plus inconnu (le Gurja Himal) dans la chaine des Dhalagiri.Très peu d'aascensions, 2 voies possilbes, vraiment excitant à priori. Mais les photos receuillies grace à GST nous ont convaincu que le risque de buter avant meme le camp 1 etait trop fort. Donc back to the Dorje. ! Pour le moment je suis sur la base de 3 camps d'altitude , mais on a encore le temps d'affiner.Pour les cordes, on va minimiser les cordes fixes , Ca reste là aussi à fignoler.

Pierre

[poker en ligne francais]

Une dette de gratitude est en ordre concernant les transmettre votre pièce. J'ai flagrante plaisir à elle. J'ai mis un canal à mon message ici pour les différents individus peuvent le lire attentivement. Mes disciples ont sur ​​les interets mêmes. Une dette de gratitude est en ordre concernant les transmettre au poste grande me porter!